A Tutorial: Finding Historic Places to Metal Detect

Posted on October 4, 2009, 3:43 pm, by wayne and received 2 Comments ».
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park_entrance

Another quickie post, but a good one.

In this post I’m going to show you how to find some good historic spots to metal detect using the Yale Peabody Museum website.

Here’s how:

1. Visit the Geographic Names Information System (GNIS) page at Yale Peabody Museum.

2. You will be given the option to enter a search term in the box. If I’m searching for schools I put “school”, if I’m searching for parks…well, you guessed it: “park”. For this tutorial I entered “school”.

3. Select your state from the dop down menu.

4. Select what kind of feature you want to search. Select the same thing you put in the search box. Check out all the features you could search.

5. Enter your county.

6. Click “SUBMIT”.

The results page will give you a long list of schools (or parks, etc). Hopefully there will be some that you weren’t aware existed, even some designated “historic”. My search for “schools” in my county revealed 29 historic schools. Your search will give GPS coordinates for the location.

So now grab your GPS, or look up the coordinates on google earth, and have fun.

Comments welcome. Did you find any possible detecting spots? Many spots designated “historic”? Any other tips for using the Yale search?

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Metal Detecting Old Drive-in Theaters

Posted on September 28, 2009, 11:48 pm, by wayne and received 1 Comment ».
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drivein

Hey folks, a quickie today.

I’ve driven by this drive-in for years and never bothered to pursue permission to detect it. The place closed down in the 80’s after being open since the 50’s. I envisioned the place packed with classic Chevys, guys on dates with the friends hiding in the trunk (ok, before my time, by I’ve heard stories from my dad).

I’ve also imagined the TRASH that must be in a place like this. Old style pull-tab heaven. I’m thinking that narrow, slow sweeps, a small coil, and reduced sensitivity would be the way to go.

What’s your experience with old drive-ins? Ever detect them? Any luck? Any advice?

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KNOW your Metal Detector!

Posted on September 19, 2009, 2:42 pm, by wayne and received 3 Comments ».
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The Fisher F75LTD and Teknetics T2TLD have a new microprocessor and new “DSP” code with a ‘boost process’ to increase depth. Not to mention a cool camo color scheme (don’t set it down in the woods). $1200.

The White’s Spectra V3 (Vision) has a full color display and wireless headphones. $1600.

You can connect the Minelab E-Trac to your PC by using the detector’s USB interface. You’ll dish out about $1400 first.

So many expensive options, so little time.

My first detector as a grown up was a Radio Shack Discovery 2000, and I was FIRED UP about f75ltdloveusing it. Seems like everything was going good with it too – until I started researching detectors and their limitations. To prove (or disprove) what I read, I decided to plant a couple of coins in my back yard to see how the detector would respond. Needless to say there was some concern when I couldn’t get a peep from a 4” deep coin.

Then it started.

I needed another detector. Then I met my friend “The forum classifieds” The Discovery 2000 was introduced to another owner, and I made acquaintance with detector number 2. But it didn’t seem to find me any more goodies than the first one. So it had to go.

On to Detector #3, but my finds didn’t improve at all.

Detector #4 didn’t have manual ground balance. I decided I had to have that.

Detector #5 ROCKED! But the tones were confusing.

Detector #6 was supposed to get really good depth in mineralized ground. But it didn’t find me any seated coins.

I decided that I didn’t give #5 enough time, so I got another one. Results were the same.

Detector #8 was REALLY deep in my ground, but it was single tone.

Detector #9 was an “interum” detector until I had enough cash to get one I really wanted.

Thought I’d give single tone another try. Meet Detector #10.

Nope, I can’t do single tone.

Let’s offer Detector #10 for trade and see what kind of bites it gets.

Meet Detector #11.
LOVE IT!

Now, this is a basic summary of my experience with different metal detectors. I’ve changed some of the names to protect the innocent. If you’ve been metal detecting for any length of time, you can see a HUGE problem with this behavior.

I’m not LEARNING my machines.

To be a successful detectorist, you have to KNOW your machine. Every beep, iffy tone, weak tone, half tone, grunt, fart, click, pop, chatter, squeel, whistle, null, ID bounce, tone bounce, and scratch means SOMETHING. The only way to get to know your machine on this level is to get your knees dirty and dig.

Dig pulltabs. And bottle caps. And canslaw. And foil. And iron.

Keep notes about how the detector signaled that bottle cap. Was it just a beep? Or was it more of a quick, subtle nuanced buzz followed by a weak beep with a bouncing zinc/cap visual ID? Did it ID different from different angles? Did it pinpoint accurately? Did switching to all metal mode tell you more information?

Here’s my challenge to you: spend 20 hours using your detector before you give up on it and get another one. That might be a few weeks or a few months, but stick with it and try to learn what the machine is telling you.

In the mean time, I’m saving for a F75 -LTD.

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Can I Metal Detect Your Yard?

Posted on September 12, 2009, 11:55 pm, by wayne and received 4 Comments ».
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Permission.

You gotta have it to metal detect. Sure, we could discuss “public” property like parks, beaches, schools, and so forth. But I want to talk about those other places where we all want to be able to detect. The old houses. The fields. The churches.

Taking a slightly different approach, I’d like to ask the non-metal detecting landowner a question:

Would you let a stranger dig on your property?

You’re minding your own business and there’s a knock on the door. You open it up, and there’s a guy standing on your porch. He seems a little apprehensive, but he introduces himself and begins talking about his metal excavationdetecting hobby. He says he likes to look for things that people may have dropped over the years – coins and whatnot. All seems OK until he mentions digging. The grass isn’t exactly golf course quality, but it looks good. After he says that he’ll cover his holes he says that he’ll split whatever he finds.

How generous!

So Mr. Landowner, what do you say?

Now let me propose another question:

What would it take for you to let him metal detect on your property?

  • I trust him.  I’ll give him permission!

Ah, the ultimate landowner – a detectorist’s dream.  This is the landowner that gives permission without any discussion of giving over or even sharing finds.

  • Go ahead and detect, but I need a cut of the finds.

There might be some valuable objects in my dirt!  Before he goes you’ll need to see what popped up in case you want to keep some of it.

  • Have at it, but we’re going to split the finds!

You’ll check on him every once in a while to see what he’s found, and before he leaves you’ll divvy-up the finds.

  • The only way he gets to detect my land is if I keep ALL of the finds!

It’s your’s anyway!  He can have fun detecting.  Take pictures if he wants.  But anything found is your’s!

  • Get outta my yard!

Nope.  You can’t metal detect here.  You don’t want some stranger walking around your house, digging holes and scaring the kids!

Ok, now that we’ve covered the “traditional” method of gaining permission (or getting turned down), let me offer an alternative:

Mr. Landowner, what if you were PAID to allow someone to metal detect your yard?

It’s your yard.  You’re letting someone dig some holes, enjoy themselves, and maybe even have some financial gain if they find something valuable.  There’s nothing wrong with asking “What’s in it for me”?

So what if the guy on the porch said “I’m looking for some good new places to metal detect.  Some of my research suggests that there could be some interesting history involved with your property.  Would you allow me to metal detect your property and keep anything I find if I paid you $10 an hour?

How likely would you be to grant permission then?

Detectorists…what do you think about this?  Would you be willing to pay someone in order to metal detect their property and keep anything you find?  If it was a place with awesome potential I sure would!  Think of similar “pay to play” pastimes – golfers, for example, happily pay similar amounts for a few hours on the links.

So landowners, what do you think?  Under what condition would you allow someone to metal detect your property?

Detectorists, what would you be willing to do to gain permission to metal detect private property?

Comments please!


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Getting Started in Metal Detecting

Posted on September 6, 2009, 3:24 pm, by wayne and received 2 Comments ».
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Lynn from Detector Depot was kind enough to give our readers a little “Detector 101″ advice. Are you looking into buying your first detector?

Read on!

questionm

“I would like to buy a metal detector and I’m not really sure what to get.”

This is a very common call we receive at Detector Depot. There seems to be quiet a few “greenhorns” entering the detecting world lately. Most callers do have some idea about the basics of a machine. What we like to do is to take them through a four step process to find out exactly what machine is best for them. We also inform them that cost does not always correlate to a great metal detector.

First we find out just exactly what it is they plan to do with their new machine. Is it coins and jewelry, beach hunting, gold prospecting, relics or a combination of some or all?

Second, after we ascertain the type of hunting they plan to do we then obviously look at what they are budgeting for in their new investment.

When a price range is secured we like to give the upside and downside of the machines that would “fit” their specifications. Defining ground balance, sensitivity, threshold and explaining the difference between a DD coil vs. a concentric coil, the benefits of using an elliptical coil vs. a round coil are some of the areas we discuss.

After giving the customer two to three machines to ponder we then discuss accessories and what they would need as beginners.

At Detector Depot we never and I say never recommend one machine over another when we have narrowed the choices to two or three. We feel that it is very important for the customer to “pull the trigger” on the final decision.

For most beginners there are several affordable machines that will give good depth, discrimination and very little frustration. This is the key for new enthusiasts……very little frustration.

We do have $600 machines that will actually find targets deeper than some $1000 machines. Buying a higher priced machine is very similar to purchasing an automobile. The more “bells and whistles” you have the higher the cost. However, the more expensive machines as a whole do find targets deeper and in worse soil conditions.

For the beginner, however, “bells and whistles” can frustrate and be a bit overwhelming. We have seen many customers who purchase a very expensive “bells and whistles” machine become very frustrated after they alter some of the factory settings to their personalized settings. There can be a lot of misinformation on the web about making these so called adjustments.

Taking a “turn on and go” machine out of the box and heading to your first hunting spot is where you can have the most fun and sometimes luck. There have been many a newcomer to find that extremely rare coin, CSA belt buckle or ring the first time out with a very moderate priced machine with the factory settings.

Bottom line, utilize a good and reputable dealer to walk you through the process. Also don’t feel as though you are being short changed if you don’t purchase the $1000 plus machine. Some of the best metal detectorists hunt with a moderate to low priced machine and do extremely well. A lot has to do with research and being patient. “Patience” is a great topic for someone else to address.

Good Hunting,
Lynn
Detector Depot

mdd

You can contact Detector Depot at www.detectordepot.com. Tell them iDetectorist sent ya!


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A Basic Guide To Metal Detector Coils

Posted on August 31, 2009, 11:45 am, by wayne and received 10 Comments ».
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iDetectorist sends out HUGE thanks to Sam Luedke and Tony Pasquale from Kellyco Detectors. Tony has over ten years experience in the industry and has written books on metal detecting such as: “A Beginners guide to the Minelab Sovereign and Excalibur Series”.  Read more about Tony at his Kellyco page.

Tony stepped up to answer some questions related to metal detector coils.garrettcoil

iD: A basic question to start things. What exactly does the coil (or “loop”) of a metal detector do?

Tony: The search coil transmits the signal and receives back information to communicates to the control box.

iD: There are a lot of different kinds and varieties of coils available, such as Double D, Concentric, Eliptical, and Widescan. Can you tell us about these varieties.

Tony: The concentric type coils are the standard coil design that that searches very deep in the very center of the coil diameter, however will not search the whole diameter of the coil at full depth.

The Double D (DD) type coil searches almost the whole diameter at full depth and is also excellent at canceling out ground mineralization. The elliptical style coils can come in either the DD or the concentric style, however they are oval in shape instead of round. This allows the user to search closer against things such as trees and fences etc.

iD: The age old question – does size matter? Why would someone choose to use a small coil rather than a larger one or a larger one rather than a small one? Are there situations where a particular size would be better?

Tony: Yes, size does matter a great deal. If you are searching a more open ground such as a field or beach, then you can achieve better depth and ground coverage with a larger search coil. A smaller search coil is beneficial for searching areas that are very congested with items in the ground and are more precise and also smaller coil are more sensitive toward smaller items.

iD: Any advice that you would give a coin shooter for coil selection?

Tony: Most coin shooters prefer a smaller coil because they are more precise.

iD: What about a relic hunter?

Tony: Most relic hunter prefer a larger search coil because they hunt in more remote ground and getting the extra depth is a help because civil war relics are very deep because they are hundreds of years old.

iD: A beach comber?

Tony: Beach hunters also mostly prefer larger coils to achieve a greater depth and ground coverage.

iD: Someone looking for gold nuggets?

Tony: Typically gold prospectors prefer an smaller elliptical style search coil because they are very precise and extremely sensitive.

iD: Thanks again! If someone is interested in getting an accessory coil for their metal detector, why should they contact Kellyco?

Tony: Because we are absolutely the largest and the most experienced metal detector dealer in the World!

For more information be sure to visit Kellyco Detectors and be sure to tell them iDetectoris sent ya!

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What is a “good” find anyway?

Posted on August 15, 2009, 1:48 pm, by wayne and received 2 Comments ».
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I have to thank the World Metal Detector Community for the inspiration for this post. In their membership application they ask what seems like a simple question:

Most Significant Find?

Well that got me to thinking. I’m not one of these detector guys that go out for a few hours and return with a handful of wheaties and a few silver coins (though I’d like to be). In my detecting world I’m lucky to get a wheatie and a handful of clad coins. Silver is another matter all together. But I digress…pal2

When I bring up detecting to my non-detecting acquaintances, I’m asked the same general question: “What’s your best find?” I realized that a good find is usually one of the following:

  • Historic Value

Yep, Oldies. In my book this is the best kind of find. I’m a little envious of you folks in the New England area with cellar holes and colonial home sites to search. Colonial coppers, Largies, buttons, buckles. Civil war relic lovers fit in this niche, I’d say. And we can’t mention oldies without bringing up you folks on the other side of the pond. Hammered coins and centuries old jewelry – oh my! Just the thought of who owned it, why was it lost, and all that has happened in the world while the treasure rested just below the surface of the ground.

What detecting dreams are made of!

  • Metallic Value

This section almost needs a few subsections, but I’ll try to condense a little bit.

A large portion of the metal detecting community are gold hunters in some form or another, whether it be for jewelry or nuggets. I’ll admit this isn’t an area of detecting in which I have much experience, but I gotta tell ya, the idea of pulling some of the gold stuff out of the ground is very appealing. I’d love to hear from some of you nugget shooters out there. You guys usually have dedicated gold machines and have to deal with some pretty tough conditions to get those pretty rocks out of the ground. Like wise if you enjoy sweeping the beaches for the bling.

  • Sentimental Value

Last year my daughter lost a locket that her grandmother had given her. She pretty much knew the exact spot at the school playground where she noticed it was missing. I grabbed my detector and had the locket in hand in no time. The look on her face was priceless. Now THIS was one of my best finds ever. Nothing old, no real monetary value. You folks that have had the awesome pleasure of returning a lost item to the owner know what I’m talking about.

  • The “weird” factor

I once found a coin labeled “Palestine” from the early 1900s at an old school in rural west Alabama. How’d that coin get there? I know of MD’ers finding old foreign coins at new schools and parks, interesting “whats-its”, and various other goodies. These finds have no real value but the uniqueness of the find, location, or combination of both makes the find that much more interesting.

I’d love to get your input on this. What would you consider your best find? Does it fit into one of these categories? Is there another category you would suggest?

As always, thanks for visiting!

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6 Reasons Why You’re Not Making Good Finds When Metal Detecting

Posted on August 8, 2009, 10:31 pm, by wayne and received 6 Comments ».
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If you metal detect, you’ve been there. Maybe it’s an old  home site, maybe a beach, maybe a civil war campsite. Could be the site of a former village or even a cellar hole.  Everything seems perfect for a day of great digs. Then you get there, swing for several hours, and have nothing to show for it.M-MAN_WITH_EMPTY_POCKETS02

I’ve been thinking about why this might happen, and have come up with a list.

Look it over, and let me know if you have anything to add.

  • TOO MUCH TARGET MASKING/TRASH

I think this is one of the most likely reasons that goodies aren’t popping out of what should be a banner site.  What happens is that a good target is located too closely to an “undesired” metal object.  The metal detector “sees” the bad target and isn’t able to reset fast enough to indicate the presence of the good object.  You can see the result of masking by placing a coin and an iron nail next to each other on the ground.  Swing the detector over them and see how many “hits” you get.  If they’re close together you’ll likely only get one.  See how far you have to separate them, and how slow you have to swing before you can detect both objects.

Masking can sometimes be reduced by using a “faster” detector, a smaller search coil, reduced sensitivity, and/or different “tones” settings if your detector is capable.

  • THE GOODIES ARE TOO DEEP

Sometimes it doesn’t matter how good your machine is, how “hot” you run the sensitivity, how low you have the discrimination, or  how big your coil is,  the good stuff might be down too far.  Just consider how grass, leaves, rain, mud, dirt, and footsteps can push a coin down into the ground as years (or centuries) march on.

  • MINERALIZATION

There’s more than just “dirt” in your dirt.  Depending on where you live, there’s variable levels of iron and minerals in your ground as well.  To be effective the detector has to adjust to this ground mineralization and pick the good stuff out of these metallic-like ground conditions.  The higher the mineralization, the tougher it might be for the metal detector to weed out the good stuff, particularly at depth.

To compensate for this, use a detector that has manual or automatic ground balancing rather than a preset ground balance level.  Sometimes using less sensitivity is effective as higher sensitivity can be likened to using our bright-lights in the fog.  It just doesn’t go far.

  • THERE’S NEVER BEEN ANYTHING GOOD THERE

I know, we don’t want to think of that. But consider “who” lived, worked, or played at your site in the past.  Are you at an old sharecropper house?  Not likely they dropped many silver dollars.  That would represent a month’s pay, and if a coin like that was discovered missing I’m sure they wouldn’t sleep till it was found.   Same with smaller denominations.  Money meant something to prior generations and it was guarded carefully.   If the folks didn’t have money, they didn’t lose any!

  • OPERATOR ERROR

Yes, I had to go there.  Metal detectors are complicated machines and require PRACTICE! If you have a new detector or you are new to the hobby, LEARN your machine.  Read the manual, then read it again.  Set up a test garden and see how your machine responds to different items at different depths with different setting and different sweep speeds.  Reasons such as too fast sweep speed, sweeping too far off the ground, and arcing the coil are all reasons that good targets might be missed, and all can be corrected with practice and learning the machine.  Be sure to check the online forums, such as the ones listed in THIS POST , for help on using your detector.

  • IT’S BEEN HUNTED OUT

No one likes to hear this one, and its usually not the case.  For the most part you can assume one or more of the above reasons has PREVENTED the site from being hunted out.  Still, a site that has been pounded to death by everyone with a metal detector is quite possible squeezed dry.

The remedy?  Do what other’s have been unwilling to do.  Go to the overgrown areas, swing the coil under the bushes.  Go to the part of the site that is “forgotten” about.  Or go somewhere else.

And if all else fails, find somewhere else to detect.

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New Blogroll!

Posted on August 1, 2009, 1:41 am, by wayne and received 3 Comments ».
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Hey folks,

I just added a blog roll to iDetectorist.com. Yeah, see it over there on the right and down some?

Well, if you have a blog and would like to swap links, just let me know and I’ll add it. Just respond with a comment. Of course, the key here is SWAP links, so I’d appreciate a return link.

w

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To Grandmother’s house we go…

Posted on July 28, 2009, 12:04 am, by wayne and received No Comments ».
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…with detector, of course.
July is here and that means one thing: our family’s bi-annual assault on south Alabama. We’re talking seven hours to make a five hour drive. Living the dream, I tell ya. All to visit for a few days with Mamma ‘nem.

Of course that means good detecting grounds. There are a few places here that I hit every visit, and every time something decent pops out of Mother Earth.

This time was no different.

I was raging with some Typhoid Cabin Fever of the Swine variety and had to get out for a little while. Plans were made to get up nice and early and spend a couple of hours getting my hands dirty. By 8 am (yes, early for me) I was at the first site.

  • Site A: The old park under renovation.

On paper this was the perfect detecting spot. This was an old park in the middle of town, old buildings adjoining. Dirt was being moved, so it was easy access to dirt that would normally be about 6 inches deep. Paper was one thing, but finds were squat. After loading a couple memorial pennies in my pocket I decided to move one.

  • Site B: The old school that has always done well.

Big grassy yard with old shade trees. Bing!
I’ve done well here before, from wheaties, mercs, even a military button (WWII era). Some quick tech info – F70, SL mode, 90 sens, discrim just above foil. Onward…
1943 NickelI tell ya, the way this hunt started I thought I was in detecting heaven. Must have been swinging all of 10 minutes when I get a nice solid nickel signal, about 4 inches deep. This was a SOLID signal with no bouncing to tab. Had to be a nick.
Dug a little plug in the St. Augustine grass, and there in the sand it was. Shiny little bugger, more than a normal nickel. Yep, a war nickel.

Woot! Tucked that bad boy in my pocket and continued on.
It must not have been 15 minutes later that I get a nice solid dime signal. The depth reading of 7 inches let me know I had a chance for another silver. Cut through some roots. A little deeper and…
A nice silver Roosevelt dime. Sure, a merc or heck, a Barber would '51 Dimehave been sweet, but I wasn’t going to put it back in the dirt.

Over the course of the next hour or two I couldn’t pull another silver, not even a Wheatie. Managed about a buck and a half in clad, and a heavy sweat.
Called it a day. Always nice to go to those honey holes that keep producing.

Please watch for the next update of iDetectorist. I’ve been thinking about the whole idea of one’s “best” find. Stay tuned.

.

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